![]() ![]() I use any leftover cutoffs from the 2×12 stringers to make blocking that goes in between each of the stair stringers. I always end up doing a little fine-tuning to make sure all the stringers are flat and level across the bottom riser. …and the front to accommodate the bottom plate and the sub-riser board. Once the bottom riser is installed, I transfer my on-center measurements to the top of the riser.Įach of the remaining stringers must be trimmed off the bottom… Whatever you do, be sure to pre-drill for all fasteners at the bottom of the stringers! These holes are close to the ends of the boards and they’ll split easily. After this project, and for future stairs, I decided to put the solid riser in between the outer stringers to avoid having to adjust or cut the stringers. Note that if you install the sub-riser on the front of the stringer, as I have, you have to adjust the face of your outer stringers for the additional 1 1/2 in. Once I’m certain that the outer stringers are set correctly, I install a solid 2x sub-riser-ripped to the first riser height-and I attach it with more HeadLOK screws. width of the stairs for parallel before moving on. It’s always a good idea to make sure that the bottom riser is at the proper elevation-that’s where most mistakes are made in stringer layout (see Solving Porch Problems). …and then I drill pilot holes with a hammer drill into the concrete for Tapcon screws, which secure the bottom board to the concrete. I use FastenMaster HeadLOK screws to secure the outside stringers into the bottom plate… This plate serves two purposes: it keeps the two outer stringers parallel, and it provides a solid nailer for attaching the bolts that hold the bottom stair assembly together. I wrap the bottom of that plate with Ice & Water Shield to protect it from the concrete. Next I take a 2×12 or 2×10 and cut it to fit in between the bottoms of the outer stringers. …making sure the top steps of the stringers are level. The post is secured to the hanger board and blocking with FastenMaster ThruLOK bolts.Īfter making the necessary cut off the bottom of the first step of the two outer stringers… I install them with Simpson Strong-Tie stringer hangers… I use 2x stock for hanger boards, and whenever possible I attach the hanger boards to the tails of the deck posts to add strength to the railing and help support the hanger board. Next I mark on-center spacing for each stringer. Once all the stringers are finished, I mark the layout, starting with the level line at the height of the first riser-measuring down on the rim joist from the top of the finished decking. I use my grinder with a sanding disc to remove any irregularities. After the stringers are carefully cut, I clamp all the stringers together to check them for uniformity. on center (just for the stairs not the deck itself). With some PVC decking, it can be as close as 9 in. ![]() That is due to the decking manufacturer’s span limitations for stair stringers-in this case, about 11 in. Start with the Stringersįirst, you’ll probably notice in some of these photos that there are a few more stringers than normal. ![]() Since then, I’ve started using a second approach that is a bit more acceptable given recent changes in code requirements for continuous handrail. ![]() That’s when I came up with the first technique in this article. Because of the overall length and height of the stairs, and the span limitations for the composite railing, I had to move the bottom posts back a few inches to make sure I could span between the mid-post and the bottom post. Two years ago, I worked on a large deck project with a good-sized set of stairs. ![]()
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